"Every child's holiday will be made infinitely more
magical if your holiday décor features a homemade gingerbread replica of your
home, and don't they deserve a magical Christmas, you lazy slacker?"
That was printed in the lifestyle magazine that showed up in
my mailbox yesterday. Well, it basically said that. Pretty much. A magazine I felt guilty
sitting down to read because there was probably some linen I should be ironing
or yogurt I should be culturing or fresh evergreen wreath I should be
fashioning out of clippings from the indoor ferns I didn't kill because of
course I'm an excellent horticulturist and I even know what a horticulturist is.
(You believe me, right?) But since this magazine held wisdom on perfecting my
technique of all of the activities above and the holiday spirit was upon me, I settled
into the guilt and flipped away at the glossy pages.
You know the magazine – it's the one that suggests stuffing
your Thanksgiving turkey with figs and pancetta and roasted artichoke hearts
with butternut squash (not slathering a half-frozen bird with Jell-o powder and orange juice
like I do) while you wait for the sautéed escarole on the stove. I'm not sure
what you're waiting for the escarole to do exactly because I don't even know what
escarole is and I'm too busy trying to figure out where to find fennel and
endive for the fennel-endive-pomegranate seed salad every decent human being
can whip up for a light lunch when having surprise company.
You know the magazine. Martha Stewart Living.
Because of Martha, I know how to make handmade marshmallows
in Christmas-y shapes and create my own hand-beaded bag, which I should be
making unique for each outfit or at least for every day of the week. Page 3 tells
me I need a $10,000 oven to ensure my cream puffs are baked with the most even heat
distribution possible, which must be true even though I've never baked cream
puffs in my life, but I still feel good about myself for a split second because
at least I know what a cream puff is, which is more than I can say for the
endive. I'm pretty sure the oven in the Dollhouse retails new for about twelve
bucks.
With every page, I wonder things I hadn't even thought of
until this very minute. Things like whether my hair is thick enough or my
kitchen mixer can make pasta. I start realizing things I need that I never
needed before. A hybrid. A wine cellar. A sheep whose wool I can make into fashionable
winter clothing for my family. I see things I probably should make because I'm
sure every other person in the universe is making them and the instructions are
right here! In my hand! Page 26 alone gives me all I need to know about making
both a catmint pillow bed and bracelets/tassels made with the hair
cultivated from five Friesian horses…and I'm not even making that up.
Page 69, spice-infused milk and sugar-dusted macaroon trees.
Page 71, scented tree ornaments. Page 37, a $520 makeup bag. Page 45, perfectly
complected laughing children in matching outfits. Page 53, hand-punched paper
doilies. Page 55, patterned men's socks, folded, lined up in a drawer and
organized by shade. Page 61, handmade bell jar terrariums with miniature skiers
and tiny penguins on snowy glitter mountains. Page 62, toast in the shape of
the USA .
Page 82, chamomile-yogurt panna cotta. Page 112, a hand-carved menorah. Page
124, a miniature winter forest in a $172 bucket. Page 145, a "simple
desert" – lemon mascarpone crepe cake made with 62,789 layers of crepes
and lemon curd made with eggs from your own personal chicken who is also a designer
poultry model.
Plus 186 other pages I didn't mention.
None of this resembles my life. Martha's calendar (which she
graciously shares with us on page 2) features twice-weekly appointments with
her personal trainer and other ridiculously unrealistic pursuits like "harvest
citrus from greenhouse," and "write thank-you notes."
But somewhere during my mental vacation to Bedford Farm, I become
overwhelmed and tired. Those hand-beaded purses are kind of ugly. Escarole
sounds a lot like cooked snails. I have zero desire to dust or even possess a
collection of tiny skiers in glittery jars.
This all is the brain-child of a woman who might as well
live on another planet, a woman with a team—nay, an enterprise,
dedicated to this kind of fluffery. I don't have a maid or a stylist, and my entourage
is populated with small people who still pee themselves. She wears tailored
pantsuits; I pick kid boogers off the knees of my mom jeans. She hand-glitters
her letterpress holiday cards; I haven't sent a Christmas card since 1998. She loves
propagating rare plants from cuttings (her words); I kill silk flowers. She has
an entire day marked off her calendar for Frederic Fekkai's birthday; I get my
hair cut once a year...at Walmart.
Like so many others, this magazine is designed to make me
want this life, to be convinced that I need this life, and even more, that I
should spend time and energy and loads of money in the pursuit of it. But the whole thing really makes
me want to climb back into bed, on my drug-store sheet set in my thrift-store
pajamas, and give up the glittery ghost. I don't want to live at Bedford Farm and I don't want
to be Martha. I don't want chickens with headshots or a beagle in Tartan
pajamas. I don't want to teach Snoop Dog how to cook or practice perfecting the recipe for chocolate kugelhopf (or give myself a headache trying to pronounce it). I don't
want to tolerate the message that I am not enough and don't do enough, and I
sure as hell don't want to pay for the privilege.
So here it is. So long, Martha. Your pantsuits are lovely.
Your home is impeccable (both the gingerbread and brick-and-mortar versions).
Your holiday table is splendid. Your cider-braised slab bacon looks delicious. But
we have to break up.
Because here's the thing. My bacon is just fine like it is. I
would rather strangle myself with tinsel than create a to-scale gingerbread
replica of my home. Sheep stink and so do chickens. You should consider
changing the name to Martha Stewart Can't Even Live Like This magazine,
because at least it would be truthful.
Consider my subscription cancelled, my ticket for the guilt-trip
torn to bits.
How's that for Living?